Tikin Xic Recipe: Quintana Roo’s Fiery Grilled Fish Wrapped in Mayan Tradition

If your beach vacation hasn’t included fish wrapped in banana leaves and kissed by fire, you haven’t truly tasted Quintana Roo. Tikin Xic (pronounced teekeen sheek) is the coastal crown jewel of the Yucatán Peninsula—a smoky, citrus-marinated fish rubbed in achiote paste and grilled whole in banana leaves. No breading. No batter. Just flames, Mayan spice, and fresh Caribbean flavor.

This isn’t your average fish dish—it’s the kind of meal that tastes like a breeze off the Caribbean and a high-five from your abuela. And if you’re into regional flavors with serious history, don’t miss our tamales de Chipilín —a southern Mexican classic with just as much soul.

What Is Tikin Xic?

At first glance, Tikin Xic looks simple: fish, spices, banana leaves. But don’t be fooled. This is no ordinary grilled fish. It’s a dish that’s been marinated in sour orange juice and annatto paste, stuffed with slices of tomato and onion, then wrapped in banana leaves and traditionally baked in an underground pit or grilled over an open flame.

The name Tikin Xic means “dry fish” in the Mayan language, referencing the way it was once sun-dried before cooking. These days, it’s more commonly fire-roasted or baked, but it’s still every bit as bold and unforgettable.

Why Tikin Xic Represents Quintana Roo

You can’t talk about Quintana Roo without talking about the sea—and Tikin Xic is basically the sea, marinated and smoked. Found on menus from Isla Mujeres to Tulum, it’s a go-to dish for locals and a must-try for visitors wanting more than a resort buffet.

It’s the kind of thing you eat barefoot at a beach palapa with a cold cerveza, the sea breeze blowing through, and the smell of wood smoke clinging to your clothes. In other words, it’s paradise—served hot.

Where to Eat It

If you’re headed to Isla Mujeres, look for beachfront grills that serve Tikin Xic wrapped in banana leaves and grilled right in front of you. In Tulum, eco-chic restaurants take a gourmet spin on it, pairing it with agua de chaya or artisanal mezcal cocktails. And in smaller towns like Puerto Morelos, you’ll find the most authentic versions at local marisquerías—no frills, just flavor.

Wherever you eat it, one thing is guaranteed: this is the dish locals recommend when you ask what to eat that actually tastes like the coast.

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Tikin Xic: Quintana Roo’s Fiery Grilled Fish Wrapped in Mayan Tradition

Tikin Xic is a traditional Mayan dish from Quintana Roo featuring whole fish marinated in achiote and sour orange, wrapped in banana leaves, and grilled or baked until smoky and tender. It’s fiery, bold, and packed with the flavors of the Yucatán coast.

Print Recipe Pin Recipe

Prep Time 15 minutes mins

Cook Time 45 minutes mins

Marinate Time 1 hour hr

Total Time 2 hours hrs

Course Main Course

Cuisine Mexican

Servings 4

Calories 375 kcal

Ingredients

  

• 1 whole red snapper or grouper cleaned and butterflied
• 2 tbsp achiote paste annatto seed paste
• ½ cup sour orange juice or mix orange juice + lime if unavailable
• 2 cloves garlic minced
• ½ tsp oregano
• ½ tsp salt
• ½ red onion thinly sliced
• 1 tomato sliced
• Banana leaves fresh or thawed if frozen
• Optional: olive oil epazote leaves
• Corn tortillas and rice, for serving

Instructions

 

• How to Make Authentic Tikin Xic
• Step 1: Marinate the Fish
• In a bowl, mix the achiote paste, sour orange juice, garlic, oregano, and salt. Rub the marinade generously over and inside the fish. Let it marinate for at least 1 hour (overnight is even better).
• Step 2: Prepare the Banana Leaves
• If using fresh banana leaves, briefly pass them over an open flame or dip in hot water to soften and make them pliable.
• Step 3: Wrap It Up
• Lay out the banana leaves and place the fish on top. Add tomato and onion slices inside and on top of the fish. Wrap it tightly in the leaves like a tropical burrito.
• Step 4: Cook It
• You have options here:
• Traditional: Bake in a covered pit or underground oven for 1 hour.
• Modern: Bake in a 375°F (190°C) oven for 45–60 minutes.
• Beach-approved: Grill over indirect heat, covered, for about 30–40 minutes.
• Step 5: Unwrap and Serve
• Carefully unwrap the banana leaves and serve the fish whole with rice, tortillas, and maybe a squirt of lime or a dab of habanero salsa.

Keyword Tikin Xic

Banana leaf-wrapped snapper beside grilled tomato and onion slices, sizzling on a hot grill in true Quintana Roo fashion.

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Suggested Sides & Serving Tips

Serve Tikin Xic with warm corn tortillas, pickled red onions, and fluffy white rice. A light agua fresca—like agua de chaya or cucumber-lime—balances the spice perfectly. Want to go big? Add frijoles colados (smooth black bean purée) and roasted habanero salsa for a Quintana Roo feast.

Bonus Salsa: Chiltomate (Roasted Tomato-Habanero)

Chiltomate—smoky, spicy, and straight from the comal. The perfect rustic match for Quintana Roo’s fiery Tikin Xic.

Ingredients:

• 2 ripe tomatoes
• 1 habanero pepper
• 1/4 white onion
• Salt to taste

Instructions:

1. Roast the tomatoes, onion, and habanero over a dry comal or skillet until charred.
2. Blend or mash with salt until smooth. Serve as a fiery, rustic salsa with your Tikin Xic.

Quintana Roo on a plate—grilled Tikin Xic, vibrant sides, and all the color and fire you’d expect from the Yucatán coast.

Final Bite

Tikin Xic isn’t just a dish—it’s a portal. One bite and you’re standing on a beach in Isla Mujeres, your feet sandy and your soul satisfied. Quintana Roo has no shortage of seafood options, but if you want the real deal—the dish locals grew up on and chefs still respect—it’s this bright, smoky fish wrapped in banana leaf. Welcome to the real flavor of the Caribbean coast. If you’re loving this coastal vibe, you’ll definitely want to check out our grilled fish adventure from Nayarit next—it’s another seaside favorite with serious flavor.